       Working on Chpt 10 - Canard Construction updated: 19/08/2008
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17/01/2008 Step 5 – Installing the Axles, Brakes and Brake-lines I decided to use the Cleveland "high energy absorbing" CWD 199-197 brake kit as per plans, which is rated at 289,000 ft.-lbs. and has metallic brake pads rather than organic. I started off by placing the fuselage on the trestles upside down and ensuring it was levelled left to right and fore to aft. The plans state that you need to check the fit of the Cleveland CWB 199-197 Brake Torgue Plates on the AX5 1.25" axles, as there might be a problem with the inside radius interfering with the axle and the plate not fitting flush. My Torgue plates as supplied from Wicks within the 199-197 kit, came with a radius on the inside hole and fitted flush without any further filing. I also noted that in the plans it shows 3 spacers per axle, whereas the Cleveland 199-197 kit is supplied with one A484 spacer 1/4" wide and one A484-4357 spacer 7/16" wide.
The two 2.5" x 2.5" square back-up plates were made from 0.63" thick 2024-T3 aluminium and put aside for later. The gear leg ends were then measured and FS110.0 marked 1.75" in from the leading edge and a vertical line dropped using the digital level. Reference marks were also drawn on each gear leg for lining up the axles. The top of the axles were marked 1/2" down from the gear leg ends, with the centre of each axle at FS119.0. This is measured 42" from the top of the longerons, I used a digital level on the longeron and dropped a tape measure from each leg to check and confirm FS119.0 and on my legs this turned out to be 1.75" from the top of each leg.
The centre was marked onto the sight screen (the garage door) using a laser and the Toe-In was calculated as per plans for each side and marked onto the door. Each leg was measured to be 33.95" from centre, with the Sight Screen measured at 128.25" from the gear leg centres. So the Toe-In was found to be 17/32", calculated at 0.1" per every 2ft. I tried the plans method of sighting through a 1/4" tube to check the Toe-In and just could not understand how this method could be accurate enough and eventually resorted to using the Laser in my spirit level, placed against the sides of each leg to check the 1/4° Toe-in. I also tried a hand held laser pointer, but when tested for accuracy was way out and this idea was discarded. The height of the laser from the bottom of the level was added to the Toe-In reference mark on the sight screen. I then sanded the sides of the gear legs flat, until I hit the correct spot with the laser.
I then proceeded to mark the location of the torgue plate bolt holes onto the leading edge of each gear leg for trimming. Once I had trimmed one side correctly, I made a cardboard template and marked the other leg for cutting. I then proceeded to glass the leg ends with the 3 BID layup, 3.5" wide by 8" long. After cure I trimmed the legs, marked and drilled the 4 bolt holes for each axle. Before fitting the axles and backing plates with flox, I greased all the bolts with car wax polish so that they wouldn't stick and covered both axles bases with cling wrap. The bolts were tightened lightly until the current Toe-in was obtained, this was checked with the laser level against the axle ends, ensuring that the level was horizontal and left over night to cure. The next day the axles and bolts were easily removed for finally assembly of the wheels and axles. Heat Shields - This isn't covered in the plans but is discussed extensively in the archives. I used the 8" x 12", 0.063" thick 2024-T3 aluminium plate supplied with my chapter 9 parts and started by making a paper template. I made the shield a little wider than the strut at 110mm and used the axle base to mark the location of the centre and the 4 holes. From the centre I scribed an arc with a 90mm radius. The shield should be a bit larger than the brake discs. I placed my shields between the axle and the strut, in this location it should block any radiated heat from the brakes and not interfere with the wheel or the brake. It will also conduct most of the heat transferred from the brakes through the axle away from the strut.
After refitting the axles and heat shields onto the strut I then proceeded to fit the tyres and tubes onto the Cleveland rims. I was a little confused about what to do with the nuts and washer supplied with the Aero Classic tubes and after e-mailing the Cozy group was advised that these are not required as the valve stem floats freely within the rim. I followed the steps below to assemble the rims and inflated the tyres to 60 PSI.
If you do it right, the tube will not have been pinched by the two halves, and you will have a healthy tyre. Before turning the fuselage over and making the Landing gear box, I have decided to move onto step 6 next and finish the Landing brake. Landing Gear Box - 11/05/2008 After completing the Air Brake flap the fuselage was flipped over onto its wheels for the first time and I must admit it is starting to look pretty good. Using 3/8" Divinycell foam off-cuts (Wicks Part No. F500-030), I made the landing gear box pretty much as per plans. The size and location of the 2 centre access holes is not stated in the plans and at this point I'm not too sure what the purpose of these 2 holes are, so I have decided to leave them uncut for now until. If I need access at a later stage to plumb the brake lines I will make a rectangular hinged door which can be opened and closed with ease. I proceeded to glass the inside surfaces of the 3 pieces of foam on the bench. After cure I trimmed the sides and floxed the pieces into place, finishing off with the final 2 BID layup, over lapping onto the sides by 1". The triangle pieces didn't completely close off the gap between the 2 landing gear bulkheads and this isn't addressed in the plans. I'm not too sure if this is closed off later when fitting the centre spur.
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